“Residency Week 6 – Live Music Week”
Monday started with Anne going with Diana over to Metairie (where the big box stores are nearest to New Orleans) to shop for a new oven for her Mom’s house. Everything was on a long back order and so she didn’t have a successful trip. But she did learn where all the huge stores like Best Buy and Home Depot are located – they don’t have them within the normal New Orleans city limits – which I think is a nice feature.
We walked to Dos Jefes for the regular Monday night Jon Fohl show, and were pleasantly surprised to find Papa Mali subbing for him. Mali had a nicely varied set, playing a number of songs he had written with Robert Hunter (Grateful Dead lyricist), and telling some great stories. Here he is playing “Deal.”
I also enjoyed his version of Bob Marley’s “Redemption Song.”
We had a nice chat with Papa during his break. Diana asked him about the song below that he had written about his wife (married for 40 years with 6 kids and 2 grandkids). The struggling musician actually offered to buy us drinks – silly man – but such a sweet guy. He noticed a friend at the bar – Dale Spalding, harmonica player for Canned Heat, and went off to coax him into playing in the second set.
Here’s the song for his wife, “Not so hard to understand.”
And then a real treat, Dale Spalding playing the Boz Scaggs classic, “Lend me a Dime.”
An excellent start to “Live Music Week.”
Diana met Debra and Anne for a ladies lunch at Shaya on Tuesday. They did bring me some leftovers and hung out at the condo for a while after lunch.
“Pogeutry” provided our music on Wednesday at Tipitinas. This is a band made up of the Lost Bayou Ramblers with Spider Stacy and Cait O’Riordan of the original Pogues from the 1980s. I loved this show – so much energy and a good lead in to St. Patrick’s celebrations. Here’s “Dirty Old Town.” Kenny and Kara were able to join us and both enjoyed the show very much.

Spider Stacy is quite the tin whistle expert:
We enjoyed Happy Hour on the Columns porch again on Friday afternoon. The beet salad may be the best that I’ve ever had – the food has really come a long way under the new ownership. We laughed at Tim’s patron saint on our walk home:

And the number of beads still in the trees:

It was back to Tipitinas (thankfully a 5 minute walk around the corner) on Friday for a free show by the Soul Brass Band. Another excellent evening, that ended with McD getting a big hug from the surly bouncer that she befriended over the course of the evening. Here’s the band performing the Rolling Stones “All Over Now”:
Saturday brought…another parade! This time the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s parade. Not nearly as crowded as the Mardi Gras parades, but just as much fun. I wasn’t expecting cabbages, leeks, and carrots to be typical throws from the floats – you really needed to pay attention. We all had fun collecting “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” stuff for Anne’s dad, Grandpa Jack.

The krewe came back to the condo to relax after all the fun of the parade. We ordered Theo’s pizza and the boys enjoyed a cigar on the front balcony.
And then…Diana convinced me to walk around to another free show at Tipitinas – this time Papa Mali, the guy we enjoyed so much at Dos Jefes on Monday night. Unfortunately, this one was not our favourite – too much noodling around on the guitar and keyboards and not enough song structure. Oh well – we had an amazing week of music overall.
Sunday was a mostly lazy day and then we joined Denny and Anne for dinner at Jamila’s. This is a Tunisian restaurant with excellent lamb tagine. I had been talking to my mum about the place, and she encouraged me to get the tagine and report back about it. It was thoroughly delicious – so tender and so much flavour. The place is run by a husband and wife – he manages the front and she runs the kitchen. So welcoming and funny – we will be back for sure.

We had a drink at Chaise Delachaise before Jamilas. I didn’t recognize the name, but realized on arrival that we had enjoyed a lovely New Year’s Eve dinner there a few years ago. So many great places close by in this town.
Enough music already, so I’ll dive right into the book section.

My first book this week was “The Violin Conspiracy” by Brendan Slocumb. The plot revolves around a Stradivarius violin that is stolen from a black violinist. It turns out it was given to his great great grandfather by his slave owner. The story of the violin theft is interesting, but less so than the story of Ray and his journey through racism to become runner up at the Tchaikovsky competition. I found the first 70 or 80 pages a bit superficial, but really got sucked in when the story flipped back in time to Ray initially being obsessed with playing.
Slocumb holds a degree in music education (with concentrations in violin and viola) from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro. For more than twenty years he has been a public and private school music teacher and has performed with many orchestras in the region. All of this makes for some detailed descriptions of violin technique and repertoire that I enjoyed a lot. I learned what double and triple stops are all about.
I recommend this book to anyone with even a passing interest in classical music.
Having run out of books on hand – time for a visit to Octavia books down the street – I read one of Diana’s stack. “One Italian Summer” was a very quick and easy read. Pretty girly but set in Positano with pleasant descriptions of the food and the area.
Here’s the Amazon summary:
“When Katy’s mother dies, she is left reeling. Carol wasn’t just Katy’s mom, but her best friend and first phone call. She had all the answers, and now, when Katy needs her the most, she is gone. To make matters worse, their planned mother-daughter trip of a lifetime looms: to Positano, the magical town where Carol spent the summer right before she met Katy’s father. Katy has been waiting years for Carol to take her, and now she is faced with embarking on the adventure alone.
But as soon as she steps foot on the Amalfi Coast, Katy begins to feel her mother’s spirit. Buoyed by the stunning waters, beautiful cliffsides, delightful residents, and, of course, delectable food, Katy feels herself coming back to life. “
I liked the way that Katy discovers her mom as a real person in Positano. The construct of time travel seems a bit hokey, but actually works out well in the end.
Stay safe and kind to everyone!











Kenny and Kara joined us and we waited for a long time – but no Indians or bands. Calling it a bust, we went back to the condo to get ready for our bike ride down to the French Quarter and the Marigny to checkout all the crazy outfits.






Debra manages Jacques-Imo’s restaurant (first meal Diana and I had together in New Orleans was there) and had secured reservations for us on Wednesday night – a last meal for Campbell and Molly. Denny, Anne and Jack joined us for an excellent meal. Debra had arranged a lovely bottle of French champagne for Diana, and loaded the table up with complementary appetizers. She is so sweet and kind. This place was quite the opposite of Commander’s Palace – very casual and loud. The southern food was amazing and the portions so generous that we were eating left overs for two days. Molly was talking about her fried chicken on the flight home.
Honey was happy to have her parents back home on Thursday, and quickly destroyed her treat from the parades. How could you be angry with that face?


In the evening, we picked up Denny and Anne and drove to Faubourg Brewing in East New Orleans. It used to be called Dixie Brewing, but has changed like so many other businesses as the Dixie statues and monuments have been removed. Sun Pie and Gal Holiday were both performing outside on the expansive lawn. Gal sat down at the table with us and rapidly consumed a bunch of crawfish before her set – she had some great peeling and eating skills.

In the afternoon we attended another porch concert. This was hosted by one of Anne’s tennis ladies who was celebrating her birthday. These started as a way for musicians to make money during early COVID and I hope they continue. Just a great way to pass a couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon.
There was an interesting moment when one of the guitar players amplifier broke down. No worries – the man of the house quickly nipped inside and emerged with a replacement. “The beauty of playing at a musician’s house”, said the singer. I did chuckle at the guys in their “Laissez Boy” recliners, fresh from the parades.
I finally finished “The Great Wide Open” by Douglas Kennedy. Almost 600 pages long and pretty dense, but a really good read.

Oysters were in heavy demand on Tuesday, and so we went down to Royal Oyster House in the French Quarter. Everyone got their fill of oysters – mine chargrilled, and then we rambled around the Quarter for the afternoon. I love this picture of Diana dancing to the gentleman on the balcony who was playing music, miming the lyrics and blowing bubbles.










I had made an appointment for a haircut and beard trim at the Barber shop down the street for Thursday lunchtime. This place was a hoot from start to finish. The constant banter between the two barbers, the glass of bourbon I was “forced” to consume, and the carnaptious dog asleep in the corner all made for quite a unique experience. McD was out for a walk and stuck her head in to check on me – she was quite entertained by the show.













We walked down to Baru tapas restaurant for Tuesday dinner. I had been there years ago on a boys’ trip and really enjoyed the food. I’m glad we went when we did as Baru has been closed for renovations for the last few weeks. The food was as good as I remembered – arepas and croquettes – right up K alley.


We woke up to this view from our balcony on Thursday – how did that happen? It took several hours to clean up and Diana saw the policeman who had obviously just written an upset lady a ticket, pause and give her a big hug. Nice to see.






The parades started in earnest on Saturday, with Choctaw, Freret and Sparta all rolling down Napoleon – 2 blocks from the condo. The crew assembled and we had lunch at the local Cuban restaurant before getting in position for the parades. Denny and Alex picked up some Mardi Gras shirts next door – very bright and sparkly. Here’s some of the parade action:
































Denny and Kenny invited me to join them at Martin’s Wine Cellar for Friday lunch. I walked over from the condo and enjoyed a yummy salad – as D says, “It’s good to mix in something green sometimes.” We passed some time listening to music on Kenny’s porch and then made our way back to the condo to welcome our guests. We dragged them down the street to Juan’s Flying Burrito and they really enjoyed the hearty Mexican food and margaritas after the long drive. Some pool across the street at St. Joe’s Pub and it was time for bed.




We ordered takeout from Saj, the Mediterranean restaurant downstairs. While not at the superb level of Shaya, this is a very good option. After dinner, we made the short drive to Dos Jefes cigar bar to listen to the excellent John Fohl play guitar. He’s been playing here every Monday night for over 20 years, and was a member of the Dr. John band at their most popular. I really enjoyed the show and Dos Jefes is a great, low hassle location.
Thursday was a heavy work day, with a break for a late lunch at Shaya, the amazing James Beard winning Israeli restaurant across the street. The octopus hummus was ridiculously good – turns out they cook it sous vide for 5 hours to make it so tender. We also split a lamb burger that was fantastic. The brick oven bread is also amazing – fresh, light and so tasty.


Denny and I collected the girls at Pascal’s and drove to Snug Harbor jazz club for a show by Sansone, Krown, and Fohl. This is a venue like the Kessler – small cocktail tables and a “listening room” experience. I had been looking to see where we could see Joe Krown, my favourite New Orleans piano wizard, and noticed that he was out of town for the majority of our residency. So we needed to jump on this show to see him. I talked about John Fohl earlier – and was able to tell him how much we had enjoyed his Dos Jefes show on Monday night. These three together in such a wonderfully sounding room were excellent from start to finish. Just an excellent show and experience. They recorded an album around 20 years ago that still sounds great and I’ll include that in the music section below.
Saturday was spent exploring the Magazine St neighborhood – we walked a couple of miles in each direction from the condo, checking out stores and restaurants along the way – so many great places.
I really enjoyed exploring Octavia Books – a very well curated local bookstore – something that really doesn’t exist in many places.


After a few hours of exploration, we feel really pleased with the location we chose for the residency condo. And happy that we got some good walking done.
nerdy topics – a lot of Star Wars and the like. Kara was walking in the Wonder Woman group. The parade was a couple of hours late in starting, we believe because the lead off float couldn’t make the turn on the new route (changed at the last minute because of lack of police manpower.) We used the time to enjoy delicious empanadas and pupusas at R bar (one of Denny’s favourites.) The parade was very entertaining when it did start – and a good taster for all those to come over the next few weeks. Here are some of the sights (Kenny was a red shirt – responsible for keeping the crowds back so that the groups can walk past):









We split up the drive to New Orleans with a stop in Shreveport on Friday night. We didn’t have very high expectations, but were delighted to find the Fat Calf brasserie. What a wonderful meal – one that I would drive the 3 hours from Dallas to repeat – just amazing. We selected four appetizers for our meal – all were excellent. Moules frites, escargots, a duck and foie gras parfait, and quail with dirty rice. I don’t know which was my favourite, all so well done and delicious. We’re already plotting a visit on our return drive.









Our appetites were suitably worked up now for brunch at Atchafalaya – one of the more popular weekend brunch restaurants. I absolutely loved my duck confit hash. The blackberries and mangos listed on the menu made me a bit nervous, but they complemented the duck very well. Diana loved her Bayou Benedict.



This is embarrassing. I read 50 pages of William Kent Kreuger’s “Ordinary Grace” before convincing myself that I must have read it before. It didn’t seem overly familiar but there were occasional passages that sounded just like something I’d heard before. I finally did a search of the blog and found that I read it back in 2018. Silly K!
Monday was Martin Luther King Day. Here’s an essay he wrote in 1964, after winning the Nobel Peace Prize, for the Berlin Jazz Festival. What wonderful writing, capturing the role music has played in social change in a compact essay:






Tuesday breakfast was at Cafe Saul – a great spot that I found on my last visit. It’s so nice to be able to get a perfect macchiato with no fuss.










Will supervised the loading of Finn’s car on to a transporter that should deliver it here on Tuesday. Will has put a lot of time and money into getting the car absolutely perfect for Finn to enjoy. I only have a limited number of days to wake up at 4:30am to deliver Finn to work, and I know the retiree is quite happy about that.
“The Blue Hour” by Douglas Kennedy was my companion on the trip this week. What a well written and constructed book. I was hooked on the first page and wasn’t disappointed after that. Page one:




We enjoyed a lovely retirement dinner at C.T. Provisions on Friday, with Brent as our waiter. Finn and Alicia were able to join us. The food, company, and service were all excellent. Diana toasted her retirement with an Old Cuban (first experienced at the Moonshiner speakeasy in Paris.) C.T.’s was very busy, and Finn got a kick out of watching Brent buzzing around. Here’s D reading Finn’s retirement card, I think she liked his message about “sip and dip” and “fun in the sun”:





I thoroughly enjoyed “South and West: A Notebook” by Joan Didion this week. After her passing a couple of weeks ago, this was the only one of her books available at the library, and fortuitously, one of the few that I haven’t read at least once. She is one of those authors whose books you have to read a few times to really fully appreciate.
Earlier in the day, Diana participated in a virtual Secret Santa with Alicia and John and Joey’s families. Bonna was D’s Santa and she put together a lovely champagne themed basket. Diana was really delighted with the detail and with everything in the basket, and she had the perfect hoodie to complement it.
We flew to New Orleans on Friday morning for the fourth annual celebration of Jack and Mason’s birthday on January 2nd. We spent the afternoon enjoying the new Ogan patio, and exchanged some gifts. Anne loved her “champagne clutch” and Diana her tennis skirt (in preparation for taking up tennis during our NOLA residency.)


Costera was an excellent choice for dinner (thanks Denny) with multiple courses of Spanish tapas. The menu was fixed and included a plethora of delicious courses – beef shank Bombas, scallops, and an amazing seafood paella were the standouts. We were joined at dinner by the Kirshes, Krieks, and Eisles – what a fun group.
There was a bit of a wild party in progress when we returned to Webster street after dinner (and a few minutes after midnight.) Things quietened down quickly and we were able to get a decent sleep. Apparently a good enough sleep for McD to pop right up on New Year’s Day and head out for a run in Audubon park with Laura and Kara. She particularly enjoyed the band playing at the park entrance. Great job of starting out on the right foot Diana!


Merry Lee, Jeff, Donna, and Steve (our friends from California) were able to secure an invite to oyster fest. Merry Lee and Jeff have a condo in New Orleans now. They seemed to enjoy meeting everyone and sampling the various types of oysters.
“Bombshell” is part of the series featuring ex-CIA agent and Hollywood producer, Terry Fay, and is co-written with Parnell Hall. This is certainly easy reading, with each chapter 3 or 4 pages long. You can tell that Woods has a formula that he deploys to crank out these books. I don’t have any quotes as the writing is quite basic and used to drive the action forward, rather than set the scene or develop the characters. I’m not sure I would select another Woods book, except maybe for some mindless poolside or beach reading.