“Jazzfest Week One”
On Wednesday evening we ventured over to something new – the Constantinople porch stage to see River Eckert give a solo performance.
That turned into a good decision. Kenny, Kara and Nina met us and we enjoyed some classic River songs. Heartbreakingly, Marcia Ball was in the audience. She is one of my all time favourite musicians, has ALS and can no longer talk. River did a nice job of recognizing her.

That was a nice and casual warm up for the crazy days ahead. I like this sign that they put out during the porch concerts.

We tried something new on the first Thursday (referred to as locals day because of the reduced ticket price for local residents) and set up under the large tree at the Fais Do-Do stage. What on earth is that? Well…in French it is an affectionate phrase used to tell young children to “go to sleep.” I don’t think that’s what they’re going for with this stage. In this case it refers to a lively, traditional Saturday night country dance. These were family affairs and mothers would say “fais do-do” to their children so that the dancing could continue. We set up here in order to enjoy Shinyribs when he closed out the stage later in the afternoon.

I usually start Jazzfest with a plan and things get less and less organized as the days pass. Here were the things I was interested in for the first day:

We started out with a walk over to see Gov’t Majik at the Festival stage. They had an interesting and varied set.
We followed that with a little bit of Johnny Sketch and then heard some of Vieux Farka Toure in the Blues Tent. He is a Malian singer, composer and guitarist. He is the son of Malian musician Ali Farka Toure. There was an album years ago by Ry Cooder and Ali Farka Toure that I really enjoyed:
We made our first stop into the WWOZ tent – iced coffee, water, all kinds of fruit, and very well maintained bathrooms. This was all very pleasant – a small oasis amidst the crowds.
Our next stop was the grandstand (main viewing area for the horse racing track) to watch an interview of Jon Batiste by David Fricke. This was a very popular and poorly planned event. Organizers should have readily predicted that this would be popular and used the many TVs to broadcast throughout the grandstand rather than in just one small section. It was hopeless to try and listen with all the chatter around us and so we left to find something better to entertain us.
The Blind Boys of Alabama in the Gospel tent quickly helped us forget about the mess of the interview.



Just an excellent set from start to finish.
We sampled a short amount of Kings of Leon on the main Festival stage. Diana and I looked at each other and agreed that they were not our thing at all – sounded terrible. We beat a hasty retreat to listen to some Shinyribs. One of our group talked way too much during this set – very annoying. On our way out, we listened to some of Raye, a young English singer. She was excellent – a huge and talented band, good songs, and had a great talent for endearing herself to the huge crowd between songs.
The first day was in the books and our brass passes seemed to provide some benefits.
Friday set up was at the Festival stage – our new preferred spot up against the front of the Big Chief viewing gallery – better views and easier access than our previous spot.
Julie’s dress made it out to the festival.

We started with sets from local groups Naughty Professor and The Rumble – both very good performances. Then the last of the Nevilles who still performs in New Orleans, Cyril, put on a very strong show.
Here’s a clip of a young family member with a fancy suit:
After a solid set from the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, it was time for what we hoped would be a festival highlight – Jon Batiste. Things started off well with the Blind Boys of Alabama kicking of his show.
Batiste’s set was a little bit all over the map with some things I loved, Hallelujah:
And some other sections that weren’t what I was looking for. Overall, a very good day 2.
For Saturday, Day 3, we set up at the Gentilly Stage. The first band up was The Deslondes – my favourite from the last few years. I decided to go up front and get a close up experience.

They closed with a cover of J.J. Cale’s “Drifter’s Wife.” Really excellent stuff to start the day.
The Crowe Boys, another local band, was a new one for me. I was quite impressed with their performance.
Jason Isbell and the 400 unit followed that with a solid set – just nothing close to the one I saw in Telluride when I became an instant big fan. I don’t have any videos to share because he apparently has folks trolling around looking for short video clips from a festival and blocking them for copyright – what a ridiculous waste of resources.
Tyler Childers finished out the day on the Gentilly stage. He’s a country/Americana artist that has become very popular lately, especially with the kids. Jack and Mason joined us to watch. We gave it a few songs and were not impressed at all.

We decided to walk around the track and catch some of Stevie Nicks at the Festival stage. That turned out to be quite the undertaking, the track being completely blocked by people watching the show from outside the field. We fought our way through and were able to listen to a few songs. Stevie still sounds very good. And is clearly just as popular.
Back at Gentilly to pack up, Childers was sounding much better. Mason confirmed that he picked up about half way through, but was upset that he hadn’t played any of his very popular songs.
It was back over to the Festival stage on Sunday, Day 4. Some rain threatened as we waited in line and didn’t come to too much.


After setting up, we made our way over to the Blues tent to see River Eckert and his band absolutely kill it in their first ever Jazzfest performance. Several more thousand people than our living room or the Constantinople stage.


The two big closers on Sunday were both octogenarians – Irma Thomas and Rod Stewart. So impressive to still be performing at a high level in their 80s. Here’s Irma with her classic “Time is on my side:”
And “Forever Young:”
Moving on to the next act, Rod Stewart.


He insists on being “piped” on stage with “Scotland the Brave” and has the Celtic football team logo on the bass drum.
This was very much his Vegas residency type show and I enjoyed it all. There’s nothing wrong with cheezy if well executed.
My favourite was this old Faces song:
You do have to smile at his choice of backup singers, all great musicians also playing harp, violin, and guitar:
Phew!! Week One is in the books. Let’s do it again next weekend.

I almost forgot to mention one of the more entertaining portions of the trivia experience. Our “scribe” didn’t agree with the score that quizmaster Tom reported for our team. He sat down at the computer with Tom and got things corrected – attention to detail!



Muévelo, the Celia Cruz-inspired Cuban music dance band, was packed with ringers including Victor Campbell on piano, David Navarro on trumpet and vocals, Brent Rose on saxophone and Chris Butcher on trombone. Margie Perez was animated on lead vocals.
Monday began with a stroll down to Bistro Aquilla for coffee and breakfast. I ordered a San Giovanni sandwich which came on a base of beet dip. Diana found how much of that ended up on my fingers quite entertaining.
We met with Jeff and Merry Lee for an early dinner at Tacos del Cartel on Tuesday evening. Early so that we could eat before jet lag kicked in too much and also so that I could attend trivia if I thought I could last that late. I was too sleepy to face the couple of hours of trivia and called it an early night.




















Being in Edinburgh brough me back to Ian Rankin and his John Rebus books. I don’t think I ever read the original in the series, “Knots and Crosses.”



















































Missing New Orleans, and particularly the omnipresent live music, I reread “Groove Interrupted – Loss, Renewal, and the Music of New Orleans” by Keith Spera. He covers music for the local newspaper and I really love his writing. Here’s an online summary before I dive into some of the quotes from the chapters about how local musicians were impacted by Hurricane Katrina:













There was a travel poster from La Baule in our apartment, and this and discussion of the waves at Biarritz reminded Mum of a day that Dad and I had spent enjoying the waves at the La Baule beach – much to the concern of Mum and Elspeth as we disappeared in the swells.





















We ate at El Bistro Ondaretta on Friday night. Ondaretta is the area of town where our apartment is located and so this was less than a five-minute walk. The restaurant is small and is run by a husband-and-wife couple.















My first book this week was “The Future Saints” by Ashley Winstead. The reviews made this sound quite appealing, but I gave up early on. It was like a bubblegum pop book and nothing close to what I was hoping for and expecting. The comparisons to “Daisy Jones and the Six” should have tipped me off – I really didn’t enjoy that book either.
I switched over to “The Rest of Our Lives” by Ben Markovits. This was much more my speed. I realized a little into the read that I had previously read “Christmas in Austin” by Markovits and really enjoyed it.


































The “Heilan Coo” had been the topic of much discussion on the drive and none had been spotted. Denny used his AI buddy, “Chad”, to find the best place to see some as we departed Fort William on Thursday morning.




We had planned a tour of the Oban distillery in the afternoon. Unfortunately, like other places, they were taking advantage of the low tourist season to make some upgrades – adding an elevator and other construction. This meant no tours. However, the very pleasant tasting room was open and we availed ourselves of that feature.

We stopped into the Oban Inn on the harbour and Anne got a recommendation for a seafood restaurant – EE-USK (Gaelic for fish?) – just around the corner on the waterfront. Anne secured us reservations and we had a lovely meal. I started with the scallop gratin and then had a three fish sampler – sea bass, sole, and hake. Diana had some briny oysters.


We made our way back to Edinburgh airport on Friday morning. I enjoyed a nice roll with egg and sausage from the cafe around the corner before starting the drive. We had a reservation at the Loch Fyne Oyster restaurant and got there a bit early. Denny suggested a walk amongst the tallest trees in Europe that were just around the loch.






















On Thursday, I drove to Kilmarnock to pick up Hamish’s wee kilt and jacket. It had already been collected by Michael’s mum and dad. Oh well, it gave me a chance to ease into my left hand side of the road driving – only one attempt to get on the wrong side of the road and one curb hit. The kilt was dropped off and I had a nice visit with Jim about the upcoming Rush tour. He has tickets to see them in Glasgow and told me about taking Christopher (now quite an accomplished drummer in several styles) to see them when he was six – promptly went off to sleep.
















My book this week was “Mona’s Eyes” by Thomas Schlesser. I was about to launch into an explanation of the premise, and then realized that the online review can do that better than me:



I made a breakfast casserole in the afternoon to try and use up left over eggs and veggies from the fridge. I think it turned out well – I like to add serrano peppers (with the seeds) and extra red pepper flakes to give it a little more heat.




Diana met me at Maya’s across from Aidan Gill for lunch. She was a bit delayed as Fred dropped off a book for me to read on our trip and then his truck brakes weren’t working. Poor Fred – trying to do something nice and then had to deal with a big hassle. Here’s how Maya is described on their website:



My book this week was “She’s Under Here” by Karen Palmer. Not for everyone, and I’m not sure how it got on my list, but I did find this a good read that makes one think about how lucky our circumstances are compared to many. An online summary:


























After music, Kara (just back from Turin and Milan on Saturday night) suggested a visit to The Bell. None of us had been and thought that sounded like a great idea. This is a gourmet British pub. I had heard Sir Paul McCartney visited when last in town – so should be good enough for us.


My first book (Mardi Gras recovery days involved a lot of quiet reading) this week was “Tilt” by Emma Pattee. I enjoyed this read very much, finishing in less than 24 hours. I didn’t find out until after reading that Pattee is an environmental writer, and that makes a lot of sense now. Here’s an online summary:
My second book was “Wreck” by Catherine Newman. I enjoyed the style, humour, and characters a lot and look forward to reading other Newman books. This reminded me a lot of Anne Tyler and a bit of Elizabeth Strout.